J Sheekey

There’s a faintly unloved air to Sheekey’s exterior, but the mirrored windows are there simply to put off onlookers. Inside, this favoured haunt of the well known is intimate and gentlemen’s-club posh: a succession of little rooms (including a discreet bar) with polished wooden floors, monochrome photos of theatre stars, sea-shell light fittings and immaculately turned-out waiters. The large menu incorporates specials, caviar, stupendous seafood platters and even a few meat dishes (confit duck leg) and a vegetarian section (leek and girolle tart). Fish is ultra-fresh, and the cooking shows great flair – witness a perfectly constructed starter of arbroath smokie matched with bitter endive, soft-boiled quails’ eggs and a tart dressing; and an exemplary haddock and chips with mushed fresh peas and chunky tartare sauce. But faults aren’t unknown. Deep-fried sand-eels and brown shrimps with sauce gribiche wasn’t sufficiently different from whitebait to merit depriving puffins of their favourite food; and although fish pie had a wondrously light mash topping and creamy filling, too much smoked fish (mainly haddock) and the addition of mustard made it very salty. Summer pudding and mirabelle jelly stood out as seasonal stars on the dessert list. The white-heavy wine list features half a dozen options by the glass.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Booking: Booking essential
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: booster seats; colouring books; high chairs
Takeaway service: Vegetarian menu. Vegan dishes

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