J Sheekey

Opened as a fishmonger in 1896, this Covent Garden stalwart has been serving up fish suppers to theatre-goers, actors and bougie Londoners for 130 years. In the centre of Theatreland, J Sheekey is instantly recognisable for its bright scarlet exterior. Inside, it’s all glamorous wood panelling, leather seats, patinated tiles on the floor and black-and-white photos of Bill Nighy, Maggie Smith and Judi Dench adorning the walls. Like a lullaby softly rocking you to sleep, smooth jazz piano plays from the speakers. 

Leaning into traditional British seafood, the menu has all the big hitters: fish pie, battered haddock and chips with mushy peas, Dover sole and prawn cocktail. Show-stoppers come in the form of whopping shellfish platters, tins of caviar and pricey lobster dishes.

Our appetites are whetted with a platter of six Jersey oysters. What more can you say about a good oyster other than it tastes just like the sea? These are followed by thicc-with-a-c scallops in a sweet chilli and lime dressing, and impeccably tender charred octopus with a smoky paprika aioli. Dover sole meunière is very simple – I’d personally prefer it with capers – but the fish is delicate and beautifully cooked. Pan fried slip soles are covered with sweet crab and a revelatory warm tartare sauce, replete with my beloved capers. On the side are autumn greens dripping with butter, and the most decadent mash you’ve ever tasted. By the end I feel like I’ve eaten a kilo of butter, and I’m really happy about it. 

Sometimes, it’s nice to go for dinner somewhere immune to trends. At J Sheekey servers wear white shirts, black waistcoats and bow ties. Tables are decked with white cloth and branded side plates. There are many types of cutlery. Nobody has to explain the menu to you here, and I can’t imagine any waiter at J Sheekey has ever uttered the word ‘guys’ when addressing their table. And long may all of this continue.

The vibe An old-school West End restaurant that’s still got plenty of glamour. 

The food Classic British seafood dishes, cooked impeccably. 

The drink A handsome wine list, signature cocktails and lots of champagne. 

Time Out tip After 9pm on Mondays to Saturdays, J Sheekey offers two small plates and a classic cocktail for £20.