Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

For many Londoners Lancaster Gate is nothing more than a one-way system separating Bayswater and Marble Arch, but turn into the streets around Clifton, Gloucester and Hyde Park Squares and you'll find a flat-dominated, rather genteel residential area. Add a constant turnover of tourists from the nearby hotels and it becomes a potentially clever setting for the right restaurant: good, but not too fancy.

Angelus is the fulfilment of a dream for owner Thierry Tomasin. Previously the general manager of popular swisherie Aubergine and before that a sommelier at Le Gavroche, he has also trained as a chef, giving him a breadth of experience useful - arguably essential - to life as a restaurateur.

Tomasin hired a French interior design company to turn the pub into a brasserie and they've handled it sympathetically. The old bar separates the rear 'lounge', with its plush sofas and low cylindrical stools, from the front dining room lined with burgundy leather banquette seating and art nouveau-style frames on pictures and mirrors. Downstairs is a wine cellar that doubles as a private dining room. The grand-sounding 'terrace' is a few pavement tables but prove popular.

Chef Olivier Duret's menu offers a modern take on brasserie food with the incorporation of ingredients from Morocco (couscous, spices) and Japan (gomasio - that is, ground sesame seeds with salt). Wines are not restricted to France, either, and prices are on the low side of reasonable, though it's best to explore lesser-known territories such as the Loire.

The excellence of Duret's starters set the bar at a level subsequent courses struggled slightly to reach. Tomasin and staff trilled at the order for foie gras brûlée. It's certainly devilishly good, with foie gras the texture of thick cream under a thin brown crust scattered with poppy seeds - an astute flavour match. Cornish crab 'in aspic' was an equally seductive cocktail topped with fennel cream and revealing complementary flavours of chilli, lime and avocado as the spoon delved deeper into the glass.

We were touched that they were anxious to ensure the beef fillet was cooked to our liking. It's hard to know what to ask for in French places because often an order for rare is translated as 'bleu' or 'still mooing'. The meat came with a tasty little tart of artichoke and cheese. Tiny Staub casseroles of mash and sautéed baby potatoes were brought to the table as accompaniments but, for a main course of sea bream, peppers and couscous, this was starch overload.

Clafoutis, a homely French batter pudding, was made posh with Banyuls dessert wine and griottines. At Angelus, the cute pud comes with poached fresh cherries on the side and a lovely fromage frais sorbet. Chocolate tart was less impressive, the pastry to filling ratio skew-whiff and the accompanying caramel ice cream lacking intensity.

Dining hours are flexible. You could, mid-afternoon - perhaps after a walk in Hyde Park - have a pastry and coffee while a friend has a plate of charcuterie and a glass of wine. Parking isn't easy, but Angelus is good reason to think twice next time you drive straight by Lancaster Gate.

Time Out London Issue 1933: September 5-11 2007