Restaurants

Tucked into the genteel residential area behind the one-way system around Lancaster Gate, this brasserie de luxe looks the part: dark wood and white linen, twinkling glassware and chandeliers, burgundy leather banquettes and large mirrors set in art nouveau-style frames. It’s owned by Frenchman Thierry Tomasin, who trained as a chef and was also general manager at Aubergine and sommelier at Le Gavroche – so he’s certainly got the background to set up his own restaurant. The chef is another Frenchman, Olivier Duret. The food is as polished and demure as the setting. Sometimes flavourings are too subtle: we found it hard to detect any vanilla in a starter of vanilla-marinated salmon with warm asparagus, although the fish was high quality. The addition of preserved lemon lifted a main of pollock, served with a salsa of beans, olives, tomatoes and capers, above the norm. Silky smooth mash came in its own mini saucepan. Pricing is high, with most mains hovering around £25; john dory, served with braised baby fennel and baby artichokes, clocked in at £33. But dishes look beautiful, and service is adept and personable. Drinks and snacks are also available in the atmospheric rear lounge, which resembles a civilised boudoir with its crushed velvet sofas, floral motifs and soft lighting.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009