Restaurants

Texture’s relaxed, modern design with comfortable brown leather and plush gold velvet seating sits harmoniously in a grand old room with original plasterwork. At front is a champagne bar that combines the fun of fizz with the seriousness of discernment – co-owner Xavier Rousset is a highly regarded sommelier. Like business partner chef Agnar Sverisson, his CV includes Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir, but here you don’t have to pay top whack to enjoy a superb meal. At £18.50 for two courses, the set lunch is the best value on these pages. Also tempting at £49 was the four-course Icelandic menu, a tribute to Sverisson’s background, featuring lamb from Skagafjördur in northern Iceland. But first comes London’s most intriguing range of nibbles: a long, crisp-like shard of fish skin, mousse-like wasabi dip and a hearty yet vibrant combination of barley, herbs, lemon and yoghurt. Sourdough breads were offered to dunk into lush tapenade or olive oil, then appeared a little glass of pea mousse and mint granita: delightful. Showing world class, Sverisson confidently combined Scandinavia, the tropics and the Mediterranean in a main course of succulent roast Cornish skate with barley risotto, passion-fruit sauce, artichokes and almonds. Lending a personal touch, Rousset recommended a bold pinot gris from Ortago, New Zealand to complement the meal. Dessert of skyr (a dense yoghurt-like cheese) with iced strawberry compote, granita, juice and olive oil was as refreshing as glacier water, the simple list of ingredients belying its intense flavours: stunning. Our only criticisms concern the repetition of flavours, and the (rare) unnecessary ingredient. Seaweed and cardamom flavoured truffles, and coffee and anise macaroons, showed the kitchen’s determination to end on a high note. Business dining formed most custom on our visit, but Texture will appeal to anyone looking for light, healthy gourmet cooking.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009