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By Jessica Cargill Thompson
It is inconceivable that a fancy tearoom on East Dulwich's main drag won't be an instant hit, so only a matter of weeks after opening, Le Chandelier is already full of buggy-wielding mums and freelancers piggybacking on the owner's wi-fi.
The latest place to quench London's current thirst for speciality infusions, Le Chandelier is Moroccan tea palace meets English tearoom, with delicate chinaware, wholesome baking, velvet sofas and a ceiling dripping with chandeliers.
Reading the tea menu is rather daunting for the uninitiated, especially anyone confused by the difference between black (robust, often drunk with milk), green (paler, good for the digestion), oolong (rich in essential oils), white (delicate, low in caffeine) and the rarer yellow (mild and refreshing) categories into which the teas are grouped. Flamboyant descriptions make for an entertaining read: the Yunnan Gold is 'dark, rich, tangy and deep with tapered liquorice spice notes'; the Jing Monkey-picked Oolong has 'mesmerising depths' and a 'unique peachiness' (and wasn't really picked by monkeys); and the Gold Tip Puerh exudes 'an earthy aroma like damp autumn leaves on a forest bed'.
Though our enthusiastic waiter was not yet fully up to speed on the intricacies of Camellia sinensis, his recommendation of Vanilla Black Tea was spot on (I had said I liked strong, sweet teas); it had an unmistakable vanilla taste that stopped short of being sickly. The Blue Sapphire Earl Grey was equally clean and refreshing, and far deeper in flavour than you'd expect from this genteel staple - and there was no snobbery about wanting a little milk with it either. Though the top end teas hit £4, each pot stretches to four splendid cups.
Pâtisserie, made on site, was far less successful. The miniature Victoria sponge (£3.90) was chewy, the Eccles cake (a commendable inclusion) nicely flaky on the outside but too dry inside, and the ham club sandwich not only unpleasantly thin and buttery but shockingly expensive at £8.50.
With more substantial food served in the evenings, a licensed bar, lunches, champagne afternoon teas, bread and pâtisserie to take away, and teas for sale loose, Le Chandelier might be spreading itself too thin to achieve perfection.
Time Out London Issue 1937: October 3-9 2007
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I have tried this local cafe three times now and the service is getting worse rather than better. I find the staff pleasing on the eye but either distant and dreamy or down right rude! The decor is gorgeous and I loved the brunch and champagne. But if I am to spend money like this (its not cheap) then I expect to be treated with a little more care.
Although the teas are lovely, and my mid-morning Eggs Benedict delicious, there is something not quite right about this establishment. The decor is beautiful, but the music was too loud, and something stops it feeling relaxed. Service was slack and without warmth. Most extraordinarily, despite being the first customers of the day, there were no pain au chocolat or croissants and the waitress refused to bring my companion a piece of toast instead - a bacon sandwich was the only other option! NO doubt it will succeed owing to it's location, but they need to buck up their service ideas!
Enjoyed it... eclectic, well presented and delicious food. Flowering teas beautiful to watch unfold... and most refreshing! Interior spectacular. Staff helpful. It deserves to succeed!
I find it extraordinary that a business such as this can receive any bad press. One can only assume that the customers who have criticised the food had dental work done on that day and had no sense of taste because of a very numb mouth. I have been to Le Chandelier during the day and for an evening meal on both weekdays and weekends and the food has been exemplary. I can only recommend that all from the East Dulwich area and beyond attend in the evenings for the Venison alone. Overall a fine selection of wines, beers, teas and cocktails across the entire week only adds to the already sublimely relaxing atmosphere. The Chef and the Owner should be applauded for the attention to detail paid on the food and the decor. Wonderful.
LOVELY! Great range of really good, and refreshing, teas. Food also a treat. So good to be in an aesthetically pleasing space. Arrogant double buggy wielders a bit of a problem..
Le Chandelier has the potential of being that quaint tea house but apart from the delicate (though expensive) teas, it does not have much else going for it. The cakes are nothing to write home about and the scones with tea are so miniscule that the jam and cream supplied could be spread on four more. I took my six year old granddaughter for dinner there recently. There was nothing really suitable on the menu for her, so I chanced the crabfilled ravioli which was tasty and she liked them, but at £3.50 for three in a starter size and £9,50 for six as a main, I felt somewhat ripped off. The meal came with no extras! Just ravioli! So I ordered a mixed salad, which was four limp lettuce leaves with two rockets leaves for £3.50. I returned it asking for a proper mixed salal and got a couple tomatoes with slices of red onion with some new leattuce leaves and rocket. It is such a shame that in order to make a quick buck, the menu and the customer service is so lacking. Judging from the empty seats on a Saturday evening, I think many others agree. I don't think Le Chandelier will last to its first anniversary if it continues down this route.