Restaurants

Retsina has moved from Regent’s Park Road to the former site of Halepi. Everything about the new operation is spot on: the cream-walled and candlelit decor is relaxed and stylish; service is jovial; prices are great; and the cooking is effortlessly authentic. No wonder the restaurant gets packed to the rafters at night. The food exhibits the enthusiastic attention to ingredient-quality that some of London’s established Greek restaurants have abandoned. Tzatzíki contained the creamiest yoghurt; taramosaláta was rich and punchy; and the Greek salad (simply fresh rocket, salty feta chunks and ripened tomatoes) was faultless. Mixed hot starters included crisp whitebait with a slice of lemon for extra zing, spicy loukánika, plump dolmádes, fresh mint gígantes and springy kaskavalli (a saltier alternative to grilled halloumi). There were interesting additions to the list of mains, such as stuffed kalamári, though the traditional version was lusciously light, fresh and moreish. The lamb soúvla really impressed, served with an ample side of honey-centred Cyprus potatoes, well-seasoned and cooked to perfection. Two Greek coffees and complimentary loukoúmi rounded off a meal that cost £56 for two; we’d happily have paid more.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008