Restaurants

In step with its mewsy neighbourhood, Geales has marched upmarket. In 1939 it opened as a chippie, but in recent years – and especially since its 2006 takeover by the team behind the Embassy , including executive chef Gary Hollihead – it has become the habitat of Notting Hill’s casually dressed middle class. The sleek ground and first floors now feature wooden flooring, stylish black-leather armchairs, and grey walls enlivened by old photos of fisher-folk. Service is clued-up and engaging (though part of our order was forgotten). Fish remains the focus of the menu, which states the restaurant is ‘dedicated to using sustainable fisheries only’. A starter of creamy moules marinière had plenty of finely chopped shallots and parsley, and tender bivalves: easily enough for two to share. To follow, fish of the day was a handsome, ultra-fresh fried dover sole, served with a tomato and red pepper chutney. Pollack too came perfectly cooked inside its (slightly hard) beer batter. Chips, mushy peas, and excellent sweet-pickled onions all cost extra (and some prices have risen by a third in the past year), but this was a fine meal, rounded off by a luxurious tiramisu.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009