Restaurants

A barn-like space identifiable by a jaunty blue and white awning, B&G is a shop, bar and restaurant on two levels, with a tiny deck overlooking Ransome’s Dock. Despite its size, it gets hot inside thanks to all the grill action (everything from burgers and sausages to various steaks) and ineffectual air-conditioning. It’s a real locals’ hangout; at weekends this means families, lured by the easy-going attitude and a £5.25 kids’ menu (on Sundays there’s a mini roast too). Apart from the grills, the menu is an undemanding mix of caesar salads, charcuterie, fish of the day and a vegetarian pasta, but meat is the point – so we were disappointed when our worst dish was the 8oz burger. It cost £9.50 (decent chips are another £2.75) for a dry patty with an unpleasant after-taste. (We left most, told the waitress it wasn’t nice, yet it stayed on the bill.) Grilled squid with chilli fennel and rocket tasted much better, but was a tad chewy. Our meal was redeemed by the odd-sounding but delicious salt-and-pepper duck breast with crushed Jersey Royals and sweet black bacon sauce; and a tangy, refreshing passionfruit jelly with mandarin sorbet. A likeable brasserie that could try a bit harder for the price.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008