Restaurants

Though the name Marine Ices harks back to an original nautical design, this has been long abandoned; the two back rooms are painted white and populated by standard caff furniture. However, the steady trade this family company has done on Haverstock Hill since 1947 suggests customer loyalty is not built on aesthetics alone. From large family troupes to father-son outings, the theme here is delighted, sugar-fuelled kids. The surprisingly full savoury menu concentrates on salads, pastas and pizzas, but the main event is the extensive ice-cream menu. A Copa Gino sundae had too many roasted almonds, but the chocolate and vanilla ice-creams tasted authentic (if not quite as rich as their Roman or Florentine equivalents). Laced with Baileys, the hazelnut, coffee and vanilla Copa Rita is one of several concoctions to include a splash of spirits presumably to help you deal with cacophonous children. Service was slightly frantic, and two drinks failed to materialise. However, neither did they appear on the bill, and the staff graciously obliged when our 11-year-old experts order changed at the last minute.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008