Restaurants

A modest little café and juice bar, Fresco does a roaring lunchtime trade in takeaways. Between the hours of 12 and two, it’s almost impossible to get in the door. The draw is a long glass counter filled with heaped bowls of enticing-looking Lebanese meze such as mashi (stuffed vine leaves), tabouleh, falafel and dozens of salads. Everything can be served in a pitta sandwich or a plastic container to go, or on a plate to eat in. It’s almost all vegetarian, except for some chicken kebabs and escalopes, and an occasional lamb-based hot dish of the day. For such a basic operation, the food is exceptional – the thick creamy houmous and smoky moutabal (puréed chargrilled aubergine) set the standards as far as these dishes go, and are as good as we’ve ever had. The juices are also terrific; not just fruit, but also greens such as parsley and broccoli, and even beets. Choose your ingredients and they’re blended to order (£2.50-£2.95 for a tall, sundae-style glass). A set lunch with juice is a bargain at under a fiver. The wonder is that there isn’t a Fresco on every street in town.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008