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York & Albany
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York & Albany Ming Tang-Evans
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By Guy Dimond
‘The cocktails are great, aren’t they? And this place is just so wonderful,’ said the friendly, tipsy blonde sitting beside me at the bar. The thought did cross my mind – was she a plant from Ramsay Holdings, there to talk up a bar heaving with press in the first week? ‘We’re local, you know,’ said her equally blonde friend, as if reading my mind. ‘And this place is just the best thing to have happened round here for years.’
They were right of course. Camden hasn’t seen anything like this new Gordon Ramsay Holdings hotel, bar and restaurant which just oozes glamour at the northern end of grimy Parkway. The building’s a former coaching house, designed by John Nash in 1826 as part of Regent’s Park. The York & Albany monicker is a reference to Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany – better known to most of us as ‘The Grand Old Duke of York’.
York & Albany looks low-lit and discreet outside, like a private club. Step inside and the place exudes bonhomie and wealth. The horseshoe-shaped bar’s a beauty, and the staff really are expert cocktail makers; I studied them, impressed, for 20 minutes. This is not a lager-swillers’ pub; they do sell beers, but it’s the cocktails and wines by the glass you come for. Leather sofas and high bar stools make the place resemble a hotel bar, which of course, it is (the ten rooms cost from around £180 per night).
Past the chichi deli which sells Italian-accented stuff for rich folk – a window-dressing exercise, with only token amounts of fresh wild mushrooms – is the main dining room. Angela Hartnett oversees the whole operation, but it’s chef Colin Buchan handling the Modern European menu.
The quality of ingredients is excellent. A starter of smoked duck was cut carpaccio-thin, topped with pea shoots; the meat was fine-grained and flavoursome, like a cured ham. Breast and leg of partridge were cooked perfectly by separating them, the bird then reunited on the plate. The potato mousseline it sat on was so dairy-rich it was virtually potato-flavoured butter, but kale made a good foil for this fat overload.
Oven-baked halibut was a delight, the stock infused with the rich smokiness of chorizo and the texture of white beans. The accompanying pail of chips were the only disappointment, being limp not crisp.
The starters and main courses we tried were very good,but dessert clinched it for us: the prune and armagnac tart is moist and fragrant, yet with a pleasing bite on the teeth.
Service throughout was impeccable, from the greeters to the barmen to our waitress. Great service helps give the place a real sense of occasion, yet – for the time being at least – you’re only paying gastropub prices.
As we left, I stuck my head downstairs to see the other dining room, which is decorated in bold reds and comfy banquettes, like a brothel. Gordon Ramsay was there, schmoozing and glad-handing tame journalists and assorted hangers-on. But there’s no need – York & Albany will do brilliantly on its own merit, without the need for any Ramsay X-factor this time.Time Out London 1990: October 9-15
See also
- London's top 50 restaurants
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 127-129 Parkway, Camden, NW1 7PS
- Area: Camden
- Tel: 020 7388 3344
- www.gordonramsay.com
- Category: Modern European
- Travel: Camden Town tube
- Times: Bar open Mon-Thur 12noon-12midnight; Fri, Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 12noon-11pm. Restaurant open Mon-Fri 7am-10.30am, 12noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Sat 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm; Sun 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-9.30pm
- Service charge: 12.5%
- Services:
- Outdoor tables: courtyard tables, open only in good weather
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Jimjoyce
Well. I keep thinking of these fun things I'd like to do, or cafes & resturants & indie discos I'd like to go to & think its kind of dour going...
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My wife and I had lunch on the 5th June during our mini London week end break, and to be honest I feel sorry for the people who have had a bad experience here as we had a fantastic time and a delicious meal, and the little waiter who looked after us could not do enough for us. We arrived a little early but our table was ready when we where. Seated in a corner on a table usually used for four, we had a good view of the restaurant and ideal for people watching. I must admit some of the other tables looked a little close together and a little cramped. We decided order from the main menu but the set 3 course lunch which many diners where having looked good value at £18.00 per head. Our 3 courses plus 2 bottles of wine and a pot of tea including service charge came to £113. We have paid a lot more than that in some of our local restaurants in our native Lancashire. Overall we loved our lunch and would return again. Before we left I asked if the menu we'd had was on the Ramsay website? to which the waiter kindly gave me the menu to take home as a souvenier to add to my collection.
Well, what can I say? one of the worst place to have breakfast/lunch/dinner in London. as mentioned before, staff is rude and It would be generous to say that the food was mediocre. how the staff and cook got their job is still a mystery. The first time I refused to pay the 12.5% service charge in a restaurant!
We spent an evening at the bar. I agree with the bad reviews about the service, the barman was not nice nor proffessional. we asked some questions about the food menu to which it took him about 15 minutes to answer (he told us he's not familiar with the menu and went to ask someone else). when he came back we wanted to order but apparently the kitchen was 'just closed' (it was 9:45). he also told us he's not very good at making coffee.
I've been to several GR restaurants already and this one doesn't live to the reputation. The design is top notch - all the rest very dissapointing.
Had a great weekend lunch at the York and Albany. Food was excellent- the foie gras starter outstanding and deserts worth getting fat for!! We sat downstairs opposite the 'open' kitchen which was really interesting and thoroughly enjoyable.
If you want a special evening DO NOT BOOK the York and Albany. Gordon Ramsay does not practice what he preaches! The service and attitude of the staff was appaling. The only upside was the decor. The food was just average!
Took my family (including nan of 89) for dinner at the York and Albany in mid March. We had a great experience and felt very comfortable at a table downstairs right opposite the kitchen. It was nice and calm while we dined as we booked the table for 6.30pm - it was bustling when we left. The food was excellent. We all enjoyed our three courses courses and I felt it was very good value for money. The location is great for a quick stroll to have some drinks afterwards, too. We will definitely go back soon.
Food okay. Drinks expensive. Service f........ awful.
Endemic problem with serving customers.
A fab place, great food nice service but don't expect to be rushed. Dinner took us 3 hours but was worth it. Excellent wines and good value for money for this type of restaurant. Angela Harnett happy to speak to us also. Would highly recommend this restaurant.
at last we have a decent restaurant in north london excellent lunch and excellent value - good break butter and coffee three important pointers for me
This Time Our article is just nonsense. Since when was Parkway grimy, as a local I;'d agree Kentish Town Road maybe, but Parkway, it leads to The Regent's Park and the Nash Terraces. As for the pub, not really on a par with the Primrose Hill eateries and some of my other favourites which I won't advertise here. Gordon jumps on the Camden bandwagon.