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York & Albany
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York & Albany Ming Tang-Evans
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By Guy Dimond
‘The cocktails are great, aren’t they? And this place is just so wonderful,’ said the friendly, tipsy blonde sitting beside me at the bar. The thought did cross my mind – was she a plant from Ramsay Holdings, there to talk up a bar heaving with press in the first week? ‘We’re local, you know,’ said her equally blonde friend, as if reading my mind. ‘And this place is just the best thing to have happened round here for years.’
They were right of course. Camden hasn’t seen anything like this new Gordon Ramsay Holdings hotel, bar and restaurant which just oozes glamour at the northern end of grimy Parkway. The building’s a former coaching house, designed by John Nash in 1826 as part of Regent’s Park. The York & Albany monicker is a reference to Prince Frederick, Duke of York and Albany – better known to most of us as ‘The Grand Old Duke of York’.
York & Albany looks low-lit and discreet outside, like a private club. Step inside and the place exudes bonhomie and wealth. The horseshoe-shaped bar’s a beauty, and the staff really are expert cocktail makers; I studied them, impressed, for 20 minutes. This is not a lager-swillers’ pub; they do sell beers, but it’s the cocktails and wines by the glass you come for. Leather sofas and high bar stools make the place resemble a hotel bar, which of course, it is (the ten rooms cost from around £180 per night).
Past the chichi deli which sells Italian-accented stuff for rich folk – a window-dressing exercise, with only token amounts of fresh wild mushrooms – is the main dining room. Angela Hartnett oversees the whole operation, but it’s chef Colin Buchan handling the Modern European menu.
The quality of ingredients is excellent. A starter of smoked duck was cut carpaccio-thin, topped with pea shoots; the meat was fine-grained and flavoursome, like a cured ham. Breast and leg of partridge were cooked perfectly by separating them, the bird then reunited on the plate. The potato mousseline it sat on was so dairy-rich it was virtually potato-flavoured butter, but kale made a good foil for this fat overload.
Oven-baked halibut was a delight, the stock infused with the rich smokiness of chorizo and the texture of white beans. The accompanying pail of chips were the only disappointment, being limp not crisp.
The starters and main courses we tried were very good,but dessert clinched it for us: the prune and armagnac tart is moist and fragrant, yet with a pleasing bite on the teeth.
Service throughout was impeccable, from the greeters to the barmen to our waitress. Great service helps give the place a real sense of occasion, yet – for the time being at least – you’re only paying gastropub prices.
As we left, I stuck my head downstairs to see the other dining room, which is decorated in bold reds and comfy banquettes, like a brothel. Gordon Ramsay was there, schmoozing and glad-handing tame journalists and assorted hangers-on. But there’s no need – York & Albany will do brilliantly on its own merit, without the need for any Ramsay X-factor this time.Time Out London 1990: October 9-15
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Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 127-129 Parkway, Camden, NW1 7PS
- Area: Camden
- Tel: 020 7388 3344
- www.gordonramsay.com
- Book online
- Category: Modern European
- Travel: Camden Town tube
- Times: Bar open Mon-Thur 12noon-12midnight; Fri, Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 12noon-11pm. Restaurant open Mon-Fri 7am-10.30am, 12noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Sat 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm; Sun 7am-10.30am, 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-9.30pm
- Service charge: 12.5%
- Services:
- Outdoor tables: courtyard tables, open only in good weather
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Marigold86
Eep! I have never done this before and it scares me somewhat. How am I supposed to sell myself (not in a prostitutey way) and yet not be up myself?...
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Oh, and the young barman at the bar (I was there for dinner on sunday 25th) was rude and aloof, several times. Our last drink in the bar he stood in front of me with no-one to serve and cut lemons while I stood there like just that, a lemon and he ignored me. Similarly when I wanted to pay.
I was actually quite shocked and that clinched it for me I will not return.
(one of the girls - short bob - in the main restaurant was very friendly, in fact both were friendly just not attentive enough)
Great decor but the service was not as it should be...water and wine went untopped up, often waiting to give order for menus or for wine.
Food was average for the most part, not very expensive (£25 for 3 courses) but just not good enough for the price. Beef was bland, not enough gravy, starters were average nothing special at all, I couldn't finish my main (this is unheard of, I eat everything) beurre sauce was much too rich and salty (and I like rich sauces). Dessert (bread and butter pudding) was soft but tasteless again and lacked the crispy topping.
So bland, service needs be better, and too expensive for not having these items
We went with high expectations but were sorely disappointed. The service was amateur & slow, the wine list very expensive. The food was pleasant but lacking a wow factor . What was so disappointing was the small portions. To pay a very sibstantial sum for a 3 course meal & leave feeling hungry is unforgiveable in these competitive times. We shall not return & would advise others that for the same money a much better experience could be had elsewhere.
We eat at York & Albany last night (1/9) as a celebration for my wife's Birthday. We had an excellent meal. The quality of food , cooking and service was excellent. However the real revelation was the dessert of basil pannacotta with srawberries, jelly, and aged balsamic. It was Sensational ! One of the best desserts ever ! Well Done !!
Three of us ate Saturday lunch here, and had a great time. We sat downstairs opposite the kitchen and the air con was a bit too chilly and we asked for it to be turned down which was dealt with prompty. The beef from the a la carte menu was perfect, and the treacle tart was fab. Service was fine and we thought overall it was a good value restaurant and one we'd come back too for lunch.
My wife and I had lunch on the 5th June during our mini London week end break, and to be honest I feel sorry for the people who have had a bad experience here as we had a fantastic time and a delicious meal, and the little waiter who looked after us could not do enough for us. We arrived a little early but our table was ready when we where. Seated in a corner on a table usually used for four, we had a good view of the restaurant and ideal for people watching. I must admit some of the other tables looked a little close together and a little cramped. We decided order from the main menu but the set 3 course lunch which many diners where having looked good value at £18.00 per head. Our 3 courses plus 2 bottles of wine and a pot of tea including service charge came to £113. We have paid a lot more than that in some of our local restaurants in our native Lancashire. Overall we loved our lunch and would return again. Before we left I asked if the menu we'd had was on the Ramsay website? to which the waiter kindly gave me the menu to take home as a souvenier to add to my collection.
Well, what can I say? one of the worst place to have breakfast/lunch/dinner in London. as mentioned before, staff is rude and It would be generous to say that the food was mediocre. how the staff and cook got their job is still a mystery. The first time I refused to pay the 12.5% service charge in a restaurant!
We spent an evening at the bar. I agree with the bad reviews about the service, the barman was not nice nor proffessional. we asked some questions about the food menu to which it took him about 15 minutes to answer (he told us he's not familiar with the menu and went to ask someone else). when he came back we wanted to order but apparently the kitchen was 'just closed' (it was 9:45). he also told us he's not very good at making coffee.
I've been to several GR restaurants already and this one doesn't live to the reputation. The design is top notch - all the rest very dissapointing.
Had a great weekend lunch at the York and Albany. Food was excellent- the foie gras starter outstanding and deserts worth getting fat for!! We sat downstairs opposite the 'open' kitchen which was really interesting and thoroughly enjoyable.
If you want a special evening DO NOT BOOK the York and Albany. Gordon Ramsay does not practice what he preaches! The service and attitude of the staff was appaling. The only upside was the decor. The food was just average!