Tsuru

Those media types in Bankside have some quality lunchspots to choose from, with The Table, Amano and Leon just a stroll from the office. The latest addition to the South Bank smorgasbord is Tsuru. It seems to follow a similar formula to high-street chain Wasabi but with a vital difference - the sushi's actually good, and expertly made.

Our Tsuru taster box, with a selection of nigiri (Scottish salmon, yellow fin tuna, organic cod, sea bass, octopus and tiger prawn) and three plump maki rolls - a steal at £4.95 - was devoured within minutes. Notably, the delicate, creamy cod used for the sushi is from No Catch (based in Shetland), who claim to be the world's first and only sustainable source of cod, while the tuna is line-caught.

The head chef seemed adamant that we try his salads; the gyu-sashi (beef carpaccio) creation didn't skimp on the beef fillet, which was wonderfully tender, with a kick from ichimi togarashi (dried red chilli flakes). The liberal doses of coriander hidden in the greens, however, were an unwelcome surprise given that the herb is largely absent from most Japanese dishes; the flavour was overpowering.

Despite putting on airs with the minimalist, super-chic decor so favoured by modern Japanese joints, Tsuru's star attraction has got to be the comforting, home-style katsu curries. Their version of the aromatic sauce consists of 16 ingredients and takes eight hours to make before it is deemed suitable to grace whatever is the special of the day (on our visit, free-range chicken, Scottish salmon or pork loin). The panko crumb-coated chicken was fried to ultimate crunchiness before being doused with the velvety-smooth curry sauce.

Tsuru packs a punch despite its small space - the thoughtful details include Japanese soft drinks, Numi teas, brownies from nearby Borough Market, and soon they'll be serving specially chosen tipples from Damian Tillson of Sotheby's wine - damn those lucky media types.

Charmaine Mok

Time Out Issue 1955: March 19 - 25 2008

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Latest user reviews

Lively atmosphere and sushi is second to none. Katsu curry is a must for all!
chris gale  Mar 28 2008

This is 'the' place to come for sushi in south London; awesome fresh food, friendly staff and not bad prices either!
Anonymous  Mar 19 2008

Best Japanese I've eaten outside Kyoto. Great sushi and so nice to find some real Japanese curry in London!! Oiishi-desu-ne!
Kate Farmer  Mar 19 2008