Restaurants

  • Gazette

     
  • By Guy Dimond. Photography Veronique Leplat

  • As the second branch in a growing chain (the first at Battersea Reach), we'd expected simple wines and modest food at this little French brasserie. Instead, the wine list shows enthusiasm and daring from the two French owners. The list is nearly all French, but with good producers and a range of styles across prices (with plenty of interest for under £20 per bottle, and more than a dozen choices by the glass). They also have a great selection of beers, proper French ciders and dessert wines. And the menu might be short, but they do it well.

    All the staff are French, which may explain why they got so many things right - avoiding the clichés of French decor, but revealing a French approach to the dishes. The cut of beef called bavette (skirt steak) was surprisingly lean, beautifully seared on the outside and correctly rare (as requested) on the inside, topped with a sauce of shallots slow-cooked with red wine and jus. A fillet of cod had a perfectly crisp skin and was served with chervil root, an esoteric 'new' vegetable now cultivated in the Loire valley and Brittany (the tiny tubers have a texture and flavour between yam and parsnip). These tubers arrived via Rungis market in Paris.

    Desserts are more classic, from creme brûlée to apple tart. Our île flottante was ethereally light, the egg whites and sugar gently cooked in a bain-marie to set the delicate foam; the accompanying light custard had visible fragments of real vanilla in it.

    Gazette's a great little place to while away the time staring out of the French windows towards Balham High Road, or to doodle in chalk (provided) on the slate-topped tables. Most of all, it captures the feel of France better than the many faux-French brasseries in central London.

  • Time Out Issue 1965: April 17-23

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  1. Posted by Katie Hartell on 08 Oct 2009 23:14

    Had a really lovely evening here celebrating a friends birthday the other night. A great local place for classic french dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Reasonably priced wine list and a good menu.
    Looking forward to more visits.

  2. Posted by ians on 29 Jun 2009 10:54

    Late Saturday afternoon, almost early evening, we were pleasantly greeted and ordered a smoothie and some onion soup to start. The smoothie was more of a mixture of juice. The onion soup was straightforward with plenty of onion, though uninspired and included several hard bits of skin. Three or four slices of bread accompanied this in a small basket. After 30 minutes we were £10 down and distinctly underwhelmed. So we went round the corner to Bedford Hill where the Seascape Fish Bar served a freshly cooked cod and chips -- fresh firm fish fillet, crisp batter, delicious chips, none of it greasy or overcooked -- in a friendly unpretentious cafe with locals calling by for their regular evening meal. And all for a fiver each. No contest.

  3. Posted by Nikki on 29 Jun 2009 10:31

    The chalk boards, and amazing choclate souffle made up for an otherwise average dinner. The service was pleasant but slow and the beef disappointing.

  4. Posted by Adrian on 06 Mar 2009 14:48

    I went here with my girlfriend after being unable to get a table at Harrisons. Though the restaurant doesn't have the polished look of some other places, it does give it a rather Parisian feel. The service was friendly and relaxed - a nice change from being constantly bothered into making a meal choice by overzealous waiting staff. I have to say that I wasn’t expecting too much from this place, but I was pleasantly surprised. The food was excellent and the atmosphere very pleasant. We will definitely be eating here again.

  5. Posted by Linda on 25 Jan 2009 22:51

    Went to Gazette for a friend's birthday dinner last week. While the food was really good (especially the grilled cod main), the service was incredibly slow - the waiter only took our order 45 mins after we sat; starters took half an hour to arrive, and main course arrived 2 1/4 hours after we got to the restaurant. The head waiter was very unreceptive to constructive criticism about our dissatisfaction with the slow service. One guest's main was 'dropped in the kitchen' and he was left the only one without food - which is fine, it happens - but no-one told us what was going on, and no apology was offered. The only food that was a let-down was the chocolate souffle, which was a real disappointment.
    I'd go back to Gazette for dinner, but certainly not as part of a large group, and definitely not if I was looking for a relatively quick feed. For a long, relaxed evening with a few friends, it's very good.

  6. Posted by Iain on 23 Jan 2009 14:33

    I had duck and mustard risotto, my partner had steak and chips, served in pans - at first I thought the portions were a little small, but I think that was because they were served in pans, I actually struggled to finish it all there was so much, but despite being full I had to eat it all as it was so delicious. It's a very relaxed ambience halfway between a cafe and a more formal restaurant. I felt the food was hearty and of a higher standard than Harrisons nearby.

  7. Posted by James Drummond on 18 Aug 2008 17:25

    As close to very, very good French cuisine as it gets in London.
    I read the reviews below and was genuinely shocked and surpised by the negative feedback Gazette has received over the past few months.
    I have eaten at Gazette several times now and each time I have been genuinely blown away by the simplicity and the quality of the food I, and my guests, have received. The baked tomato tart with a choux pastry base and a well vinegared side-salad acts as a near perfect starter (with a chilled red Saumur). Following this with a shared steak as a main course which was both generous in size and more importantly brilliant sourced (and cooked) kept my tastebuds in a state of high alert . The staff throughout the meal were attentive and patient. And if you find a better baguette on this side of La manche please let me know.
    Breakfast is also fab. My girlfriend was over the moon with her eggs benedict and my bread, butter (French) and jam (made on the premises) hit just the right spot. Having coffee and juice on the side and getting change from £15 was a pleasant surprise.
    Gazette comes highly recommended. As a local and a Francophile I have been consistently impressed.

  8. Posted by deena on 14 Jul 2008 14:36

    Rude staff - ordered a caesar salad takeaway specifically saying "no meat" so they put anchovies without asking me. When I took it back, I was told there's nithing wrong with it - I am a vegetarian who won't touch meat. They refused to understand or refund. I felt utterly humiliated and disgusted with their arrogant attitude.

  9. Posted by Janice Barrett (registered user) on 25 May 2008 18:53

    I've had several meals here and each one has been great. The french onion soup and crepe suzette are particularly delicious. If you are starving, try the "French full breakfast" which is the most delicious but filling brekkie in Balham.
    A really nice place!

  10. Posted by Charlie Turnbull (registered user) on 04 May 2008 23:32

    On a very dull Bank Holiday weekend I was very excited to read on Time Out that we had a new local open in Balham.
    Overall the experience, unofrtuatly was quite a disappointment.
    The service was very, very slow and quite incompetent (We asked for sparkling water...when reminded about water we got tap..etc) When we visited the restaurant was 2/3 full but the two waiting staff were running around like headless 'poulet'!
    It is such a shame, I had such high hopes for this place. Blaham and the surrounding area really needs a laid back, good nosh restaurant - but unfortunately at the moment Gazette is not that - by a long stretch.
    I kept willing it to improve but after the lack of service to start, lack of drinks and then a very small portioned Terrine for £8 with bread extra (£2) things were not looking good.
    My cockrill was very good to follow, once finally received after waiting 20 mins for our starters to be cleared and then another 20 mins for 2nd course. My partner's cod was also quite good, although the description could have been a little better.
    We were both very satisfied after our main meals and so chose not to have a pud but were also pretty tired of the very poor and frustrating service.
    To make matters worse - 10% service was included in the bill!
    I would love to say I will give this place another go but at £75 for a 1 and 1/2 course Sunday dinner for two this is an expensive mistake to make again.
    I would love it to prove me wrong...

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