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Gifted chef Jason Atherton’s new venture is a steak restaurant adjacent to haute cuisine establishment Maze and, like it, boasts the beefy backing of Gordon Ramsay Holdings. It’s a handsome, if slightly sterile, set-up, kitted out with inoffensive blond-wood floors, chrome lampshades and olive green banquettes. Service is smooth and professional, as it should be in an establishment serving £120-a-head wagyu steak. There’s even a chef’s table near the kitchen. More modest spenders can choose from a carnivore’s paradise of steak varieties, as well as ribs, chops and a handful of fish dishes. The steak cuts are variable in quality; we hit upon a tender ribeye, but found the Aberdeen Angus sirloin inedibly tough. As it turned out, that left us with room for the well-executed desserts. Eton mess with mascarpone ice-cream is recommended, and typical of the classic-with-a-twist options that also include cider apple trifle and yoghurt cheesecake. Portions are small for the price, however, and steep wine mark-ups, side dishes and mineral water quickly send the bill soaring.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
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We really enjoyed our evening at the maze grill. We started with a small plate of Pigs on toast to share. The seasoning was perfect and it was just a nice way to give us an appetite.
We then chose a sirloin steak and a cornish lamb. The cooking was great: grilled but not dry and medium rare. The seasoning was subtle and really to our test. Vegetables were actually cooked the way we like it, the french way ...We always find english cuisine have a tendency for not cooking vegetables enough!! We were realy pleased with the advices on the wine...spot on!! IWe had a fab wine form Toscany!!
Then the desserts were also very good. We found the portion were good size as I can't even finish what was yet a delicious brownie with bitter chocolat.
We would say that there was no surprise regarding the price as the waiters always indicate them if not on the menu. Staff was great and we had lots of explaination about what we were having and the way it was prepared.
All together, we had a great experience and would recommand it to meat lovers!