Restaurants

Gifted chef Jason Atherton’s new venture is a steak restaurant adjacent to haute cuisine establishment Maze and, like it, boasts the beefy backing of Gordon Ramsay Holdings. It’s a handsome, if slightly sterile, set-up, kitted out with inoffensive blond-wood floors, chrome lampshades and olive green banquettes. Service is smooth and professional, as it should be in an establishment serving £120-a-head wagyu steak. There’s even a chef’s table near the kitchen. More modest spenders can choose from a carnivore’s paradise of steak varieties, as well as ribs, chops and a handful of fish dishes. The steak cuts are variable in quality; we hit upon a tender ribeye, but found the Aberdeen Angus sirloin inedibly tough. As it turned out, that left us with room for the well-executed desserts. Eton mess with mascarpone ice-cream is recommended, and typical of the classic-with-a-twist options that also include cider apple trifle and yoghurt cheesecake. Portions are small for the price, however, and steep wine mark-ups, side dishes and mineral water quickly send the bill soaring.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009