Restaurants

Olivos bold Mediterranean decor and rustic charm make it a popular choice for office workers keen to escape the hustle and bustle around nearby Victoria station. The fairly priced menu is skewed towards home-style Sardinian cooking, and is supplemented by daily specials that feature a promising array of seasonal ingredients. The actual dining experience, however, can be far from memorable. Spaghetti with bottarga, a typical Sardinian recipe, turned out to be the biggest disappointment, marred by a heavy, overly fishy sauce. A starter of chargrilled courgettes on a bed of rocket, topped with ungenerous shavings of bottarga, fared marginally better than bland roast rabbit with polenta. From a compact wine list, the Sardinian wines are the best bet in terms of value for money and quality. Allow plenty of time if youre planning to get back to work after lunch, as service can be extremely slow. We couldnt help feeling sorry for our seriously overworked waitress during a busy lunchtime. Perhaps standards here have slipped as more attention is being paid to the latest branch, a seafood restaurant called Olivomare.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008