Restaurants

This Wandsworth institution has an air of exclusivity. We booked several weeks ahead for two and still only managed an early sitting (6.30pm). The first of the eponymous Bruce Poole’s three impressive restaurants – the others are La Trompette and the Glasshouse – Chez Bruce combines outstanding food with a mildly subdued, reverential feel. It was quietly enjoyed, when we visited, by an almost uniform crowd of young professionals still in their suits. The best seats are near the window, while the main dining area behind can seem slightly airless (not helped by the lack of any focal point). We were delighted with everything the professional staff brought us. Rabbit came in various ways (terrine, rillettes, rolled breast, along with seared prunes and baked shallots): all full of flavour and the whole thing a visual treat. Venison loin (£4 supplement) was deliciously tender, with caramelised and mashed pear, while a pig’s trotter, golden as a duck in Chinatown, was stuffed with a pleasingly rich mousse and chopped ham. Vanilla cheesecake came with pink rhubarb strips and mandarin sorbet: sharply impressive. There’s a busy, knowledgeable sommelier to help you make the most of the highly regarded wine list. We love the fact that Chez Bruce takes its food so seriously, but we’d prefer a less serious atmosphere.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009