Restaurants

Chef-patron Bruce Poole’s ever-popular restaurant continues to strive to serve the best quality food at relatively reasonable prices. Sure, the menu doesn’t change very often, and the decor only rarely gets an update (there’s some colourful art on the walls this year), but the place still feels fresh and vital. Sit downstairs if you can and seek immediate help from the smooth-talking sommelier: oenophiles love Chez Bruce – its list shows care and flair in every country and every region. France dominates, and you can drink well for £30 or less. The set menu (half a dozen choices for each course) has modern flourishes but very French roots. We tried a sumptuous pig’s trotter and ham hock salad; the meats were piled in a dainty tower and served with shreds of dandelion and beetroot. Gazpacho had great flavour, but came with an improbably huge, bobbing ball of mozzarella. A pea and mint risotto was a little too buttery, despite some lovely fresh young veg, but sea bream served with baby squid and salted almonds could not have been better. The well-heeled Wandsworth set that packs out the place most days can’t believe their luck that an ambitious London restaurant has chosen to ply its trade on their leafy doorstep.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008