Restaurants

By Susan Low

In autumn 2007, Launceston Place was acquired by D&D London, owners of Coq d’Argent, Plateau, Sartoria, Le Pont de la Tour and numerous other top-end establishments. It’s undergone a full refurb, shedding its former dowdiness for a sultry, chic elegance, all chocolate-brown and sexy low lighting. At the stoves is Tristan Welch, former head chef for Marcus Wareing at Pétrus , who’s also undergone something of a transformation, swapping French classicism for British modernity. The cooking is superb. A food stylist couldn’t have made a starter of scallops in their shells, balanced on a piece of olive wood and strewn with wild flowers look more deliciously glamorous, but the straight-from-the-sea flavour was what really impressed. Deep velvety green nettle soup was served with a little mound of frozen horseradish ‘snow’ – on our visit, the only over-embellishment encountered. Mains of suckling pig with creamed onions and warm potato salad and Cornish mackerel bring English classics bang up-to-date with an evident feel for flavours. The £38 three-course prix-fixe menu delivers all the bells and whistles – amuse-bouche, pre-dessert and petits fours, all at a leisurely pace and without fussiness. The wine list is long and priced with the surroundings but the sting of 12.5% service charge is mitigated by the professionalism of staff, who combine just the right mix of solicitousness and humour. Traditionalists take note: Sunday roasts are served here too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009