Restaurants

The charming, family friendly Red Sea cheerfully makes no attempt at urban sophistication. Plastic table covers and an eccentric decor embracing Eritrean peasant scenes, the legendary Sanaa skyline and a giant view of Westminster bridge make it feel like an African transport café. The owners are Eritrean, the cooks Yemeni, the muzak Ethiopian. Service is somewhat absent-minded and for those who don’t know their way around the dishes of the region, there’s not a great deal of explanation. But the food makes its own case, ranging confidently over the classics of Horn of Africa and Middle Eastern cuisine. Our choice of awaze tibs (lamb cooked in a spicy tomato sauce), shiro (puréed chickpeas), and a range of vegetarian orthodox ‘fasting foods’ – spinach, potato and lentils – all up-ended as tradition dictates on a springy bed of injera dough. That food of such pleasing delicacy can be found at these modest prices makes Red Sea an unexpected delight. Note that it’s unlicensed, and you can no longer bring in your own alcohol.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009