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Terroirs
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© Britta Jaschinski
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By Guy Dimond
Terroirs, the wine bar near Charing Cross, has grown. It’s expanded from the single floor it used to occupy into a large basement two floors below (the same level as Charing Cross tube station concourse), thereby roughly doubling in size. This is excellent news for customers, because it’s been stupidly busy almost since the day it opened at the end of 2008, and securing a table could be tricky.
Terroirs describe the new basement as’the restaurant’, though in fact there’s not much to distinguish it from the original wine bar. The menu still has a selection of ‘small plates’, the magnificence of which has made Terroirs one of the best places to eat in central London within the last year.
The kitchen is still very much on form despite the extra workload. Potted brown shrimps are served warm, on toast, and tasted remarkably of the sea, but with a melting butteriness. Equally impressive was a slice of pork and pistachio terrine which had clearly never seen the inside of a supermarket deli counter: it was robust, coarse-textured, and exploded with flavour. Both of these dishes could be eaten as starters, or as ‘small eats’.
The main courses dishes are even bolder. We gave the pungent andouillettes (tripe sausages) a miss, opting instead for fillets of bavette steak, served with a cleft bone filled with warm bone marrow, topped with earthysnails. The combination of slithery, ethereal bone marrow and the more rubbery bite of the snails is a brilliant one, and it was beautifully arranged on a wooden platter.
Other delights include a very impressive collection of pungent French cheeses, a selection of crustacea, and charcuterie. This is wine bar food par excellence.
The wine list’s also exceptional. Terroirs is an advocate of ‘natural wines’, the ‘beyond organic’ wines which has proved controversial (for our blog on the subject, click here. I tried three of these ‘natural wines’, the first of which tasted exactly like a dry cider. The next one tasted of cider and smelt of damp cardboard; the third tasted of fermented grape juice from a home-brew kit. All the ‘natural wines’ on the extensive and interesting list are marked with a little icon of a horse’s backside, I noticed too late.
The staff are genuinely passionate about the wine list as well as the food, and very well-informed. When our waiter asked for our honest opinion of the final wine, and we gave our candid opinion, he knocked it off the bill. Top marks, but if I was you, I’d steer clear of the horse’s backside.Time Out October 2009
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 5 William IV St, Strand, WC2N 4DW
- Area: Strand
- Tel: 020 7036 0660
- www.terroirswinebar.com
- Category: Wine Bars
- Travel: Charing Cross tube/rail
- Times: Noon-11pm Mon-Sat
- Price: Dinner for two with wine and service: around £85
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A super wine bar, Terroirs ticks all the boxes - wholesome,tasty food and surely one of the best wine lists in London (and the atmosphere rocks). Go for myriad small plates to share, if you're feeling hungry and experiment with the terrific selection of wines by the glass or carafe. It is a flavour of (the best of) Paris in central London!
My wife and I were strolling from Covent Garden down to Trafalgar Square and stumbled across Terroirs. I remembered having read some good reviews about the wine list so we chanced our arm and managed to get a seat at the bar (no booking) to try a couple of glasses. The place had such an intimate buzz about it (girls outnumbered gents by about 2-1)and after a couple of really interesting wines recommended by the enthusiastic girl behind the bar, we decided to stay and eat. It proved to be our most memorable meal of the year. The sort of food I love, quailty ingredients cooked thoughtfully and not messed around with. They do a smoked eel thing which is extraordinary. I had never knowingly tasted natural wine before - apparently they are more likely to taste of where they are made, hence the restaurant's name "Terroirs" - but they were a real change to the same brands i tend to see in many other bars around London. I will definitely go back, next time with a bunch of friends and try as much as i can.
On the recommendation of a colleague, I took my fiancee and my parents to Terroirs. Good location, right at the heart of London, and my father described this as the best restaurant experience he has ever had! Though perhaps his judgement was 'enhanced' by the frankly incredible selection of wines - we just went for offerings by the glass, but there was much, much more that stood out on the rest of the list - but I would find it hard to disagree! The food is great and I would recommend Terroirs without hesitation. Will certainly be returning.
It is a wine bar and a restaurant (that's its name) and justifiably packed. Cracking food - love the charcuterie - and one of the best wine lists in London
Is it really a wine bar though? You can only get in if you have a dinner reservation.
I went to Terroirs last night and had one of the best evening this year. Food was sublime, they have a fantastic wine menu and the staff was very attentive. Walking into Terroirs makes you feel as if you enter a buzzing Bistro in Paris, it is a fantastic atmosphere, I will surely return very soon!
Two weeks ago, I booked a table for a birthday and the six of us were sent away as they'd lost our booking reference. Without a hint of contrition. Our table was booked for 6pm. Their answer? Well, we've got a table free at 9.30. Yeah, right.
Just awful, completely ruined what was supposed to be a special night. No matter how good their food, or excellent their wine, I won't be going back.
I completely agree with Doug (see above). Delightful experience all 'round, with exceptional wine and food served by delightful staff in a very enjoyable environment. It sure makes a nice change from the other offerings in the area.
Already one of the best wine bars in London. Excellent food, great wine list with a range of unusual wines and smiley service.