Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

The Drapers Arms, one of the most handsome gastropubs in Islington, has been reborn under new owners Nick Gibson and Ben Maschler (the latter is the son of restaurant critic Fay). This airy, high-ceilinged Georgian building in a quiet, leafy street has been simply renovated with a bare-boards, clean, austere look. The ground-floor bar is J-shaped and backs onto a rear garden, while the first floor dining room has a marginally more decorative look, though is only as flamboyant as a Lutheran church meeting room – and is all the better for it.

Although food’s a key part of the mix, it’s still a proper pub. Cask-conditioned ales include Harvey’s, Black Sheep or Spitfire bitters, all nicely kept on our visit. There’s a decent selection of wines by the glass, and the spirits shelves are well-stocked.

The daily-changing menu is firmly contemporary British, neatly matching the no-nonsense aesthetics of the pub’s refit. Devilled duck hearts on toast, ox tongue and lardy cake all make appearances, though it was the angels on horseback that tickled our fancy: dates (or prunes) that are wrapped in bacon then grilled, a ’70s dinner party favourite. Our prunes were stuffed with whole almonds, not the classic raw oyster centre, but were good nonetheless.

Other dishes didn’t quite live up to expectations. A cheese omelette, even if made with ewes-milk Berkswell cheese, was still just a cheese omelette with a leaf garnish costing £9.50; the small side dish of potatoes cost an additional £3. And our first piece of hake, a round white fish of the cod family (simply served with mixed vegetables in a stock), was partially raw. This fish steak was replaced without quibble and much apology, and the £14 price tag taken off the bill. A bavarois of malt chocolate, a dark-hued egg custard fresh from the mould, was a sweet delight.

The most memorable aspect of the Drapers wasn’t the food or drink, or even the well-proportioned building; it was the impeccable service. The team were well-mannered to a fault, and eager to ensure the equally well-mannered customers were well looked after.

Looking to drink? Check our pub review of Drapers Arms.

Time Out May 2009