Restaurants

This buzzy Primrose Hill mainstay remains one of London’s most highly regarded Greek-Cypriot restaurants – and quite right too. Despite its impressive size, formally attired waiters and bijou Regent’s Park Road location, there’s a sense of simplicity at Lemonia that’s authentically Greek. Service is brisk and decor is pared down (white walls, rustic furniture, hanging baskets and a leafy conservatory), ensuring attention is focused where it should be: on the menu’s impeccably sourced ingredients and on having a damned good time. On our Sunday afternoon visit the place was packed with well-to-do local families, Greek ladies-who-lunch and animated thirtysomethings devouring taverna classics like kléftiko and moussaká. From the lengthy mezédes list we plumped for calamares, taramosaláta and gígandes (butter beans baked in tomato sauce) and there wasn’t a dud dish among them. Main courses were equally pleasing: flavoursome barbounaki (small red mullet) and tender cinnamon-infused lamb. High prices (par for the course in this part of town) and occasionally brusque service at peak sittings are the only downers – both forgivable with a glass of wine in hand at a pavement table in the sunshine.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009