Restaurants

After the Kennington branch of Painted Heron closed, Yogesh Datta has had more time to concentrate on fine-tuning affairs at his flagship restaurant. Located within a stones throw of the Thames, its a tranquil place with soothing cream-coloured walls, skylights, candles and crisp table-linen. Affluent Chelsea residents dine here. The menu certainly contains some eyebrow-raisers: the likes of rhubarb-marinated seafood and rosemary-scented nan. Results are variable. Tender lamb strips, immersed in silky-smooth kashmiri rogan josh, were given a modern twist with a new-wave infusion of rose petals and a dab of red chilli jam: a superb sweet-sour match with its garlic and mild chilli flavours. Fish and seafood dishes werent as impressive. Swordfish steaks were overcooked, and had been simmered in a tart tamarind and sweet pumpkin masala with a cloying texture. Seared scallops coated in dried red chilli flakes were succulent, yet let down by an incongruous chilled yoghurt and rice accompaniment. Excellent cardamom-scented rice pudding was weirdly showered with childrens cake decorations; it didnt work. Service needed to be more attentive too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008