Restaurants

Waiting to be buzzed through a door at the back of a takeaway chicken shop keeps expectations low. But prepare to be enchanted by a courtyard-style restaurant with kitsch, mural-lined walls, terracotta floor tiles and a gallery tier above. At the time of our visit, the restaurant opened only on Friday and Saturday, but almost every table was occupied by relaxed, laughing customers being served with efficient skill by just two waiters who were kept perpetually out of breath, yet were still eager to practise their English chat-up lines. We opted for the flaming chorizo starter after spotting that our neighbours fishermans catch was decidedly small fry. Fishermans rice (arroz de marisco) and pork alentejana-style arrived a good while later, though both were worth the wait. The soupy arroz contained a more than generous amount of seafood, and the pork came richly marinated, teamed with clams and a handful of fresh coriander. We took a risk with dessert and chose the own-made Molotov, which, thankfully, contained nothing more explosive than fluffy sugared egg whites, swimming in toffee sauce.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008