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New World
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Time hasn’t left this vast dim sum parlour entirely unchanged. The dumplings are now served into the night and, come Chinese New Year, red tassels adorn the elaborate chandeliers, and red dragons curl angrily from the ceiling. In other respects, New World remains steadfastly old school. The dull red carpet of antediluvian ancestry, and the metal-framed chairs should probably have been replaced decades ago – yet add to the utilitarian charm. Trolleys still circulate here, full of steamed or deep-fried snacks, pushed by women who can be chatty, but are more often brusque and shaky in English. The dim sum too is variable. Yam croquettes had a juicy minced pork filling covered by smooth yam paste and a coating of crisp fragility. Also highly satisfactory were the char siu pork puffs encased in heavenly pastry and the fresh, crunchy gai lan (Chinese broccoli). But stodginess can raise its stolid head, most evidently in the cold lotus seed buns coated in sesame seeds. Dine here early, before food has spent too long on the trolley; lunchtimes brim with authentic bustle. The full menu has seafood aplenty.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 1 Gerrard Place, Chinatown, W1D 5PA
- Area: Chinatown
- Tel: 020 7734 0396
- Category: Chinese
- Travel: Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus tube
- Times: Meals served 11am-11.45pm Mon-Sat; 11am-11pm Sun. Dim sum served 11am-6pm daily. Dim sum £2.40-£4.20
- Price: Main courses £4.90-£10.50. Set meal £10.50-£14.50 per person (minimum 2). Minimum (after 6pm) £5
- Credit cards: AmEx, DC, MC, V
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The place is *very* well worn in, something I sometimes associate with good Asian restaurants, thankfully (I think) the New World is one of them. The worn carpets, brightly lighting, paper table cloths, stained tea pots and worn fabric on the chairs all add to the unique hustle and bustle atmosphere there - it's just about as authentic as you can get.
Wait staff can seem a little aloof and it can be hard to get their attention at times, mostly when it comes to paying the bill or trying for another drink. Having said this on almost every occasion I have been there it's been very busy so they could be excused for this.
All that aside the dim sum is excellent and you will often see a lot of Chinese diners - a good enough sign that the food is up to even their standards...
Service is good when it comes to food, trolleys come by like clock work, within 20 minutes you find yourself stuffed to the brim. You can be in and out of the New World in 30 minutes, completely content.
Something that astounds me is how cheap the New World is, especially because it's in central London. We had 6-8 dishes (inc duck), a complimentary pot of tea, soft drinks and a beer for a total of £45. I think a couple could easily eat their fill of Dim Sum for £25-30 total.
If you're out in SoHo and feel like a quick pit stop for Dim Sum or even standard Chinese affair you have to stop by this place - it's excellent.