Restaurants

Although Jamie Oliver’s charity venture is housed in a stunning Victorian building, the interior fails to be either grand or cosy, with oddly tatty tables and oversize menus. Worst of all are the unwieldy knives that practically sprain the wrist. An officious maitre d’ had one of us waiting unnecessarily by the upstairs bar while the other was already installed at the table downstairs. From then on, however, service was very professional and friendly. As it was Monday lunchtime, we questioned ordering fish and were assured it was fresh that day. The dressed Devonshire crab on bruschetta was, however, disappointing; the pollack special overcooked and dry. ‘Wicked’ Sicilian fisherman’s stew featured nicely cooked salmon and sea bass and a delicious soupy tomato and garlic base, delightful with toasted sourdough bruschetta spread with lemon aïoli. Sadly, the smattering of accompanying seafood around a solitary saffron potato had a high percentage of empty shells, some disguised with squid rings. Desserts, in the form of a caramel panna cotta with poached pears and a quince and pannetone pudding, were by far the best course.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009