Restaurants

Despite celebrating its fifth anniversary in 2007 and sprouting offshoots as far as Melbourne, standards haven’t slipped at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen. The modern Italian food remains nigh-on flawless, while service is unpretentious yet consummately professional. Whether you opt for the informal ground-floor trattoria, now open for breakfast, or the funky, retro-style basement restaurant, expect to find produce sourced from top-notch suppliers and a daily changing seasonal menu offering quirky regional specialities. One of the highlights of our lunchtime visit was outstanding pizzoccheri, a wintry dish of buckwheat tagliatelle with cheese and greens that originates from Valtellina, a valley near the Swiss border. Still, Fifteen’s forte lies in creative dishes that are less rooted in authenticity, like an impressive starter of roasted beets, blood orange and fresh goat’s cheese salad with a mint and pomegranate dressing was remarkable. When we realised that the only dessert available on the set lunch menu was unsuitable for vegetarians, our waiter promptly substituted it with another from the à la carte without additional charge. The involvement of Matt Skinner as wine buyer and occasional sommelier ensures that the compact wine list remains fairly priced and diverse.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008