Restaurants

Although it’s further from Angel than many Islington diners are prepared to travel, this little Kurdish restaurant shouldn’t be missed. It was one of the first to station a woman in the window making qatme (Kurdish flatbread stuffed with cheese or spinach); this has since become quite a fashion in Hackney. The whole atmosphere of the place is pleasingly unpretentious – closer to what you expect in Green Lanes or Dalston than Upper Street. The deep-orange walls are decorated with real farm implements; the peasant feel is emphasised with heavy wooden furniture. Mücver fritters showed the reliable quality of the cooking, neither heavy nor oily, as did arnavut ciğeri (delicately sautéed lamb’s liver with red pepper). These were followed by an outstanding ískender, made with lamb şiş rather than the more common döner. Grilled bıldırcın (quail) were exceptionally tender and meaty. A selection of vegetarian dishes is also available. A single complimentary baklava, served with ice-cream, appeared for dessert. Gem should attract a larger crowd, though we’re not complaining; those of us who appreciate it can easily get a table.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008