Restaurants

Through Bevis Marks’ windows you can see the brass chandeliers and candles of the adjoining 18th-century synagogue. It’s a stark contrast to the restaurant’s minimalist modern surrounds, full of City suits looking for that rare combination of stylish kosher food and quality wines. Chef Jason Prangnell brings an inventive touch to a well-balanced menu, strong on seasonal ingredients and presentation. While the food has been inconsistent in the past, our last visit suggested that the kitchen has now hit its stride. A trio of summer soups – beetroot, green pea, red pepper – offered a light, colourful prelude to succulent roast salmon, served on spiced cabbage with asparagus. Traditional ingredients were given a twist in dishes such as chopped liver with fig compote or crispy thai salt beef, while main courses also reflected a global array of influences, from a classical, perfectly cooked rack of lamb with cassis sauce to moroccan duck confit with lemon couscous. Ambitious desserts cater for the Jewish sweet tooth; parev ingredients are well disguised, leaving non-Jewish customers oblivious to the constraints of kashrut. Gooseberry crumble with rich crème anglaise, frangipane tart and a host of subtly flavoured ices completed a superb meal.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008