Restaurants

From Bevis Marks’ tables, set with fine linen and glassware, there are two views: modern paintings on one wall and, opposite, a glimpse into the adjoining 18th-century synagogue (well worth a visit before lunch). The chef offers a seasonal menu – unique in London kosher restaurants – catering to the demanding clientele. The stylish presentation, well-executed dishes and inventive desserts make non-Jewish guests unaware of the restrictions of kashrut. Chopped liver comes as a pâté, the smooth meatiness contrasting with a sweet fig compote. Butternut squash soup was silky, but less flavoursome than last summer’s trio of soups. Chargrilled rib steak and rack of lamb were both juicy: the steak served with salsa verde and crisp, dark chips; the lamb covered in a deep, rich sauce with pommes anna that were bland, but also beans redolent of a slow-cooked cassoulet. There’s plenty of meat-free food too, such as wild mushroom risotto, smoked haddock chowder and sea bass with oriental noodles. Sweets are appealing: melting chocolate fondant, frangipane tarts with lemon sorbet, fruit crumbles with crème anglaise. Service is smooth and unobtrusive. An extensive wine list completes the experience: an elegant meal in great surroundings.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009