Restaurants

Tucked away in a basement at the edge of Covent Garden, Joe Allen has been packing in the theatre crowds for as long, it seems, as there have been theatres. Its one of the places where youre most likely to see the cast and crew of a musical carousing in a corner sometimes still in their stage make-up. Its always full, and always buzzing. Thats what lures people. Not the service, which runs the gamut from flounce to snarl, and certainly not the food, which is far from memorable. With starters such as chopped chicken liver, and anchovy and black olive salad, this menu is all about the 1970s, only without the knowing wink. Theres nothing ironic about the side order of mangetouts with toasted almonds, the minted new potatoes or the pan-fried calfs liver main course. Generally speaking, the more adventurous the menu gets, the more hit and miss the food, so its best to go for basics such as sirloin steak with fries, or grilled tuna with roasted baby corn, and cross your fingers.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008