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Although the updated decor of this comfortable, cheery neighbourhood tapas joint aspires towards the sophisticated, the menu itself promises nothing so spectacular (featuring, as it does, mostly the old standards like calamares and chorizo al vino). But reliable simplicity is precisely the appeal of this kind of cooking. We enjoyed jamón serrano (ham), its salty, succulent slices still glistening from fresh carving. Pollo al ajillo (chicken in white wine and garlic sauce) was also respectable, the meat tender, the broth assertive, while bacalao con tomate was fresh, flaky chunks of cod fillet in a straightforward but authentic sauce. There were, however, some quite notable let-downs in our meal – stuffed peppers and patatas bravas particularly. Still, the house Rioja was enjoyable, the service was attentive, and this remains a shrewd choice for a cheap, hearty meal.
Time Out Cheap Eats in London Guide 2007
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