Tbilisi

Tbilisi is still flying the Georgian flag with more panache than its two London rivals, despite an unpromising location on a grimy strip of Holloway Road and ongoing debates among Georgians as to its authenticity. Who are we to argue, but a certain lightness of touch here suits us better. Step over the threshold to find glamorous dark red decor, gleaming glassware and cool jazzy sounds. Sometimes slightly empty midweek, it’s more atmospheric at weekends. Seize the rare chance to indulge in Georgia’s characteristically rich, semi-sweet wines such as Kindzmarauli, whose intense, dark, pomegranate hue marries so well with the aromatic dishes. Start with one of the mixed platters – more than enough for two. The kaheti combination features sparkily fresh carrot salad, beetroot with that most characteristic of Georgian ingredients, spicy walnut sauce, and khachapuri – soft yeasty bread stuffed with cheese. Or opt for kolheti, where spinach phkali (an intense, walnut-flavoured pâté) replaces the carrot. Of the mains, we always enjoy tabaka, flattened spring chicken with walnut or plum sauce, or one of the robust, tomatoey stews, such as the tagine-like lamb chanakhi with aubergine, basil and parsley. Still a well-kept north London secret, Tbilisi is well worth seeking out – note it’s open evenings only.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

Services:

Available for hire: Restaurant available for hire
Booking: Booking advisable Fri, Sat
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Function room: Separate room for parties, seats 40
Takeaway service: Takeaway service

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