Restaurants

Plate-glass windows with no curtains give diners little respite from the bustle of Coldharbour Lane outside; only some homespun paintings on the glass obscure the view. The same artist has created the large landscapes of upland Eritrea, complete with carefully rendered paintings of donkeys. Embroidered tablecloths are trapped under glass, colourful raffia tables are ready to receive the mosob (communal eating plate). The set meals served on the mosob are a smart choice for novices, allowing a taste of several dishes – either a meat version, or vegetarian. The injera bread here is a pale golden colour, with an elastic, mop-like consistency, perfect for soaking up the wot (stew) of chicken and egg, or the mild-tasting dullet (chopped liver and ‘tribes of lamb’, as it says on the menu). We particularly liked the shiro (purée of finely ground chickpeas), but the mixed fried vegetables consisted mainly of cabbage. Ice-cream is the only dessert, but the coffee ceremony is worth the wait: cardamom-scented high-roast coffee is wafted around every diner in the room before appearing on your table with a big bowl of warm popcorn.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008