Restaurants

Reasonable, reliable cooking keeps the locals coming back to this neighbourhood favourite, but the real draw is the delightful interior, crowned by a Lanna-style peaked teak roof typical of the traditional architecture of northern Thailand. The resulting ambience is calm and civilised. Gaps in conversation are filled by mouthfuls of familiar Thai dishes (the usual range of starter nibbles, curries and stir-fries), plus some less commonly seen dishes, such as baby squid stuffed with minced prawns, which was disappointingly dry and a bit chewy on this occasion. But for the most part the cooking was as crisp and fresh as authenticity demands. Salads were a highlight, particularly a beef tiger cry with, unusually for a lower-budget Thai restaurant tender and juicy steak. The tom yum soup was also notable, its chilli, lemongrass, galangal and citrus flavours perfectly balanced. While not every dish is up to the same high standard, the exceptional surroundings and deferential service more than make up for any minor lapses in the kitchen.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008