Restaurants

Few of London’s Thai restaurants boast a decor as evocative as this popular local. Apart from the myriad ethnic trinkets and photographs adorning the walls, a huge wooden Lanna-style roof is suspended above the room. Service is also authentically Thai – calm, efficient and deferential. The cooking might not be the best in town, but it’s reliable and economical and disappointments are few. Tod mun pla, the classic thai fish cakes, were spot on and served with a well-balanced sweet-sour chilli sauce. Salad of tender warm grilled pork and spring onions had a typically punchy, hot and tangy dressing. Mains include an extensive range of curries and stir-fries, plus assorted ‘chef’s specials’. Our very good lamb mussaman had a complex, spicy peanut sauce. Thai-style fried fish with chilli sauce was the weakest link: the fish was fresh, but the sauce was saccharine and unsubtle. Still, with prices that make it easy to return time and again, this kind of blip is easily overlooked.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009