Restaurants

Most of Londons Thai restaurants have expunged all bitter and off flavours and aromas from their menus, but Esarn Kheaw is proud to offer the true flavours of north-eastern Thailand (Esarn). A chicken dish is laced with pickled bamboo shoots, a fermented condiment with a distinctive off smell which adds complex and appealing sour flavours. Similarly, the own-made sausages have the distinctive sour tang of the cured pork sausages from the region bordering Laos. Esarn being landlocked, catfish are popular; the spiced north-east-style catfish has full-strength chilli heat (take note if you have a sensitive palate). Of course, not all the dishes are so extreme. Mainstream Thai classics from the length of the country are also on the menu, and the version of som tam here is peerless, although on a recent visit ours had no chilli at all; we suspect the chef forgot to add it. The best way to get the most out of Esarn Kheaw is to take a few risks: even simple-sounding dishes such as black sticky rice wrapped in pandanus leaf are a flavour revelation. Dont expect high style, though: the interior is standard high-street Thai circa 1993, and surely overdue a refurb.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008