Restaurants

Now a plucky 11 years old, Moro has an enduring popularity that seems unassailable. It’s fully booked night after night, so phone at least 48 hours ahead if you want to sample the reasons for its ongoing popularity; the success has been fuelled by a series of bestselling cookbooks, but it is mainly due to consistently high-quality cooking and a convivial dining space on fashionable Exmouth Market. The inventive menu isn’t afraid to incorporate flavours from around the Mediterranean, especially North Africa. Egyptian bottarga (grey mullet roe) was sliced wafer-thin and made a sensational salad with avocado, dill and lemon, while shredded lamb was served slightly crispy with houmous. From seven main courses, we chose wood-roasted pollack with seville orange sauce, white beans and spinach; plus charcoal-grilled bream with grilled leeks and garum (fermented fish) sauce – both intelligent, innovative ensembles cooked to perfection. Meat alternatives included fabada (the Spanish pork and bean stew), and braised oxtail with red wine, chorizo and mash. Wines and sherries are all Spanish and offer excellent value for money, from the respectable house red upwards. The only faults are some dubious acoustics and too few toilets: but that’s a small price to pay for an experience of this calibre.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009