Restaurants

It took us three attempts to reserve a table, with 48 hours notice: not bad for a restaurant that celebrated its tenth birthday in 2007. Moro owes such popularity to several factors. Exmouth Market is an unrivalled setting, coming into its own in summer when tables are placed outside. The restaurant is no less pleasant indoors; the softly lit open-plan dining room is restrained in decor, yet cosy and romantic in atmosphere. Food is the primary draw. The menu is a daily-changing Modern Mediterranean ensemble (starters and mains, not tapas) with heavy Spanish and North African accents. Slow-roasted kid was an extraordinarily tender and succulent cut of rare meat on the bone, paired with a fino sauce and vegetables. A roasted skate wing came with a light beetroot pilaf and a herby yoghurt dressing. We also enjoyed great sherries, a bottle from the well-chosen wine list, and olives and bread that were as good as any weve tasted. Naturally, theres a price for such excellence; Moro is one of the more expensive restaurants in this chapter. We consider it to be worth every penny just remember to book a few days ahead.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008