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To look at, El Parador is just your average neighbourhood tapas joint, sandwiched into a forgettable row of shops round the back of Mornington Crescent tube. It’s cosy enough, with neat, homely decor, but not the kind of setting you’d hike across town for. Not so with the cooking, which is well worth a detour. The Spanish, North African-tinged menu demonstrates a passion and skill that make this one of the best tapas restaurants in town. There are some classic dishes (calamares, chorizo) to appease the unadventurous, but wise diners will opt for the more creative recipes. Dishes we’ve loved recently include pan-fried monkfish with samphire and garlic; artichoke hearts with flageolet beans and harissa; and sautéed duck breast with quince and spring onions. Another – unlikely – highlight was a salad of cabbage, swiss chard and chicory, lightly pan-fried with caraway seeds, which demonstrated perfectly the chef’s mastery of his territory. The food is matched by a decent, moderately priced wine list, and efficient, knowledgeable service.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
London's best review, food and drink news
We had tried to go here in the winter but the place was packed and we didn't feel like waiting (they don't take reservations for just 2 people). This time we were more successful and we had a table in the patio garden, a hidden gem and a contrast from basic dining area inside. Excellent chipirones, cordero and artichokes. Patatas bravas were a little odd, basically home fries reheated and overwhelmed with a good but too copious home made sauce but everything else was to a high standard and good value, including the white Rioja.