Restaurants

Situated within the building of the An Viet Foundation, a charity devoted to helping Vietnamese refugees settle in London, this historic café occupies a site that has long been a Vietnamese dining establishment (though the management and name have changed over time). On first impressions, Huong-Viet looks more like a meeting room than a restaurant, with its neatly arranged folding tables and folding chairs. We tried the benchmark dish beef pho, and were impressed. This little bowl of broth, rice noodles, chopped spring onions, thinly sliced sweet onions and fresh coriander was brimful of aromas: a subtle blend of cinnamon, star anise and cloves. The banh xeo, a bright yellow pancake dyed with turmeric and filled with fried onions, beansprouts, chicken and prawns, was a crisp delight to be rolled into pert lettuce leaves. Ca ri ga (chicken curry with onions, carrots, aubergine and mushrooms) had the distinct sweet and piquant flavour of Vietnamese curry powder – no bad thing. Yes, this old stager has still got what it takes.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008