Restaurants

This, the original branch of the Rasa chain, caused a stir when it opened in 1997. The vegetarian home cooking of the Nair caste of Kerala had never before been so successfully reproduced in the UK, and both locals and the critics were bowled over by the vibrancy, inventiveness and novelty of the dishes. More than a decade on, the central London seafood restaurant Rasa Samudra and even a meaty restaurant, Rasa Travancore, have been added to the Rasa empire. Nowadays this pioneer may not create quite the same excitement as when it opened, but the dishes are excellent and the execution still good, if not quite as precise as the early years. Cabbage thoran is still a surprise; this delicate stir-fry sings with the flavours of popped mustard seed and cumin, plus the subtle aroma of curry leaves and the texture of shredded coconut. Moru kachiathu is another signature dish, the turmeric-stained yoghurt bathing large pieces of orange mango, the sweetly spicy dish tasting as exotic as it looks. The appam pancakes on our recent visit were disappointingly scorched on the outside, but the own-made pickles were of such magnificence that we quickly forgave this sloppy detail.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009