Restaurants

Family-run Ma Goa sets itself apart by showcasing Portuguese-influenced Goan specialities. Theres a miniature deli by the entrance, which leads into two plain but neatly furnished dining areas. Although the menu acknowledges pan-Indian tandoori grills and street snacks, the emphasis is on homely Goan classics. We were impressed by the tang of pickled shrimps (balchao), warmed through with curry leaves and served with sanna: a sponge-like steamed rice cake fermented with toddy (palm wine). Curry-house vindaloo has nothing in common with the real thing; true vindaloo is made with pork and characterised by garlicky hits and vinegary sharpness. Ma Goas rendition ticked almost all the boxes, but we wished the chef had upped the chilli quotient for true authenticity. Fish caldin, made with strips of escolar fillets, was too mild to impress and needed an extra dollop of a coconut and tamarind masala to deliver the goods. This restaurant is well-liked by Putney locals and the branch in Fulham seems just as popular.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008