Restaurants

It’s not a long walk from Kingston train station to this Thames-side terrace restaurant, which opened in 1989 but feels a decade or two older. Never mind: the carnations and wooden chairs with colourful tie-on cushions could be considered delightfully kitsch, and the place is certainly cosy. Organic apple wine came quickly by the glass, but it took repeated requests to receive tap water. Gorgeous complimentary garlic bread was made from a nutty wholemeal loaf. Stuffed avocado was buried under iceberg lettuce, cucumber and french dressing, while a masala dosai (South Indian pancake stuffed with spiced potatoes), aided by a helpful kick of coconut sambal, was delicious. When mains arrived we realised we had over-ordered. Enormous helpings of a rather retro salad accompanied nearly every plate from the kitchen. Jamaican stew was a spicy mix of beans, sweet potato and coconut milk; red lentil and avocado kedgeree was equally flavourful. In all, this was a hugely enjoyable experience.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009