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The location by the Thames in Kingston is idyllic. In the warmer months you can sit on the terrace overlooking the river as swans glide past, or take a window seat to watch the world stroll by this unaffectedly cosy restaurant. The globetrotting menu runs to two dozen main dishes, and there’s an equal number on a blackboard. Alongside the vegetarian dishes, vegan, gluten-free and wheat-free options are available, with some unusual choices like string-hopper biriani (made with rice noodles); red lentil and avocado kedgeree, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom; and tofu teriyaki. Mushroom, sage and olive pâté with crudités was an appetising starter; gazpacho, however, lacked pep and character. Tofu tandoori with potato curry had a slightly mushy texture, but the confident spicing was a definite plus. Our verdict on the mixed bean, sweet potato and coconut stew: wholesome, hearty and hunger-defeating. Staff are competent and unobtrusive, the clientele a mix of suburban ladies who lunch and weary shoppers. We left in a bit of a carb coma, but perhaps it was the calming effect of the waterside.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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