Restaurants

Tapas Brindisa makes its corner of Borough Market seem like a part of Madrid in the heart of London. Eurotravellers (many of them Spanish or South American) and Londoners rub elbows at the invariably packed bar, sipping sherry or one of the rather good wines by the glass. Bookings for the small, cramped tables aren’t taken so you’re likely to spend at least 30 minutes at the bar admiring the way in which this former warehouse has taken on a Spanish persona. It’s now the restaurant incarnation of the well-regarded Spanish food importer, Brindisa, which also has a stall at the market. Many dishes are based on prime ingredients, such as mojama (air-dried tuna loin) with sliced pear and olive oil, and mahón cheese with a sweet tomato jam. Finely sliced, ruby-red Joselito jamón doesn’t come cheap, but the quality’s outstanding. Likewise, our grilled lamb chops served with aïoli and fresh mint salad were tender and gently smoky. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any dish here. Service does its best to keep smiling, but staff make it plain there are others waiting for your table. A popular place that’s lost none of its pulling power.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009