Restaurants

Umu’s relaxed glamour gives it an edge over many kaiseki establishments in Japan. It’s secreted behind a push-button sliding door straight out of Blofeld’s volcano lair at Kagoshima. Inside, the welcome is as warm as the brown tones of the chic wooden walls, flooring and furniture. Chef Ichiro Kubota and his team work diligently behind the sushi bar; service is efficient and knowledgeable, which it needs to be when so many unusual dishes are offered. There’s a choice of kaiseki menus (a series of small, exquisitely presented seasonal dishes), plus à la carte and set lunch options. Both saké and wine lists are formidable. In the past we’ve recommended Umu highly, yet two visits this year left us disappointed. Outré ingredients don’t impress when you can’t get the basics right. Watery tofu (made in-house) had a strong flavour of dried soybeans, and the tempura was chewy, though sashimi and miso soup were of a high standard. We noticed other customers leaving food uneaten – quite an achievement when portions are so small. Curiously it was the desserts and ‘chocolates’ that shone, especially the well-balanced black bean ice-cream, topped with a multiseed tuile and candied butter bean.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009