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Hakkasan was sold to an Abu Dhabi-based company by Alan Yau in January 2008, but so far, it seems it's business as usual; Mr Yau is still involved in the day-to-day running of the restaurant. And eating at Hakkasan is still a glamorous affair. Getting past the bouncer might puff up your ego a bit, and the sense of occasion will only be reinforced when you slide into the moody 1930s Shanghai-style basement dining room. Tables are separated by geometric wooden screens, the lighting is low, and diners tend to be fashionable or on expense accounts. Stop at the bar for a cocktail or go straight for the food, which is exceptional ‘creative Chinese’ (as our server put it). Braised Duke of Berkshire pork belly in a clay pot was typical: perfectly cooked, top-notch ingredients. Deep-fried soft-shell crab had been beautifully spiked with chillies; hot and sour soup, with abalone and tofu, was far more delicate than its Chinatown counterparts. Pi pa duck had the crispest of skin in a classy spiced plum sauce; and braised tofu in broth was a study in textural contrasts, with smooth deep-fried own-made beancurd juxtaposed with rubbery fungi and expertly cooked spinach. This is sophisticated and thought-provoking Chinese-inspired food, and must qualify as one of the chicest nights out in the capital. Our top tip though is to go at lunchtime, ask for the dim sum menu (and you do have to ask), and you can feast for under £20 per head.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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Over-priced, dated and pretentious. This placed used to be cool, but not anymore. Rude staff, food feels "chainy", bar is crammed with nowhere to sit, and everything is over-priced. The high concept decor now seems out-of-date and tired. Last I went it seemed only filled with tourists, probably since it's now become a default in every city guide book. It's time has come and gone. Many other better bars and restaurants to choose from this great city.
Overhyped. £11,500 for a bottle, yes a bottle of whisky. Dull and surly staff. Meals probably come from another source. Chainy and staff characterless. Western music played. Western Clientele. Chinese restaurant but Western Music Played. Lots of tables free. Tables too close together for an intimate lunch. Small pot of Chinese tea. Brilliant birdcage interior setting. and that's really the the only reason I would return.