Restaurants

Despite gold curtains and mottled gold walls, the Square ain’t blingin’; tables are well-spaced and conversation subdued, even from the many American diners. This is one of few haute restaurants to open on Sunday evening, so perhaps it’s unsurprising to find it then busy. The three-course menu at £65 includes plenty of add-ons – canapés, amuse-bouches, pre-desserts, spectacular petits fours, superb bread. Wines start at £18 for arneis, a white rarely seen outside Italian restaurants. Many burgundies are included, of course, but the list has a varied choice of German and Austrian wines, and lots served by the glass, including several sherries. The carte is strong on fish and, rather bizarrely, beignets, which chef Phil Howard uses as frequently as his rivals reach for the chervil. A black truffle purée served with halibut was delicious, but the combination was unbalanced; it went better with the wild mushroom cake that sat underneath the gleaming white fish. Another main course, smoked loin of fallow deer, was also swamped, this time by sweet beetroot purée, though the meat and tiny roast root vegetables that also accompanied it were excellent. A promised coconut flavour was lacking from the meringues, but otherwise passion-fruit soufflé with lime ice-cream was an ideal dessert; chocophiles will be delighted with the assiette of bitter, milk and white chocolate served hot, warm and cold. Service from French-accented waiters was slick, professional yet friendly. In all, an accomplished performance from a restaurant rightfully seen as an industry stalwart.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009