Sakonis

When empty, the long capacious dining room behind the front snack counters and paan bar seems like an office canteen – complete with anodyne white walls, harsh lighting and utilitarian furniture. Populate the space with all strata of local British Asian society, however, then add Indian pop music and alluring aromas from the buffet counter, and you’ll see why Sakonis has become an Ealing Road fixture (there’s also a branch in Harrow).

Crispy Gujarati titbits, Mumbai beach snacks, masala dosais and Indo-Chinese stir-fries are best ordered fresh from the menu (they get tired under the buffet’s bright lights), but otherwise launch yourself into the eat-all-you-can deal: for breakfast (with idlies), lunch or dinner.

The array of South Indian and Gujarati vegetarian dishes is admirable. Top choices include tangy kadhi gravy tempered with mustard seeds and curry leaves, nutty khichadi, a luxuriant sag paneer, thick dahl mixed with vegetables, a potato and bean curry, and zesty sambar. Plentiful chutneys (try the coriander version) and salads add to the mix, and puddings such as thick shrikhand or fruity mango ras conclude the feast.

Jugs of water and disposable plastic cups are brought to each table by the cheery staff.