Restaurants

This ‘proper’ chippie may not immediately impress, but beyond the initial impresssion created by mint-green paintwork, exposed new-brick walls and peach faux-marble tables, elements of character begin to appear. These include framed portraits of the original Maltese owners, signed photos of old-school celebs (Mark Curry and ‘Lovejoy’ among them) and personal and attentive service. It’s the food that’s the draw, though. Fresh fish is bought daily from Billingsgate, portions are huge and there are pleasing complimentary extras (three prawns per customer and a basket of sliced baguette to start; gherkins, pickled onions and the full range of condiments to complement the mains). Our battered cod was a generous, meaty fillet. The plaice equivalent didn’t quite measure up; although clearly fresh it was rather wet and overwhelmed by an oversized cloak of batter. Chips were agreeably fat. Several grilled fish dishes are also available. Custom is diverse, with a number of tourists and couples sharing the rather hushed space with lone cabbies and local red-faced businessmen. If you’re opting for a takeaway, order in the entrance area ‘decorated’ with hundreds of football match tickets.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009