Restaurants

Although the gussied-up Brunswick Centre marks out this quarter of Bloomsbury as an area on the move, one local institution remains steadfastly unchanged, lodged in a decade long past. Inside the North Sea youll find worn carpets, velvet-padded chairs, net curtains and a charm that cant be faked, no matter how pricey the refurb. The restaurants chummy, seaside-chippie feel is a key draw, however, as the food is far from perfect. While we were impressed by the scale of a roasted sea bass (enormous, as were most of the portions), the fish itself was overcooked and dry. Same with a main of trout in parsley sauce; despite the pleasant sense of nostalgia, brought about by its near-comical lack of aesthetic finesse, the delicate fish wasnt prepared with enough attention. Starters were better: generous smoked salmon and a rich, salty fish soup were equally pleasing. Tartare sauce is own-made; we devoured it with a sizeable basket of not-too-oily chips. Proximity to the British Library means this a popular lunch stop for academics; many enjoy their meal with one of four bottled ales, St Peters among them.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008