Restaurants

Sukho offers one of Londons more creative takes on Thai cuisine; come here for a romantic and sophisticated meal. Pots of bamboo separate the bustle of Fulham Road from the intimate dining room, which is dominated by serene neutral tones and an impressive traditional wood carving. The rooms beauty is echoed by the dishes, which are wonderful medleys of complex, contrasting flavours arranged elegantly on the plate along with flowers and elaborately carved root vegetables. The chefs, who boast impressive Bangkok pedigrees, deliver intriguing combinations. Forget fatty deep-fried spring rolls. At Sukho, rice paper encases smoky tofu, cucumber, spring onion and just enough sharp mustard to cut through the honeyed dipping sauce. Fried soft-shell crab was excellent, accompanied by a chutney of shredded papaya, chilli and tamarind. Whole deep-fried sea bass creative, not traditional according to the friendly server was spectacularly presented with a sweet chilli and spring onion sauce poured on top at the table. Confit of duck leg was infused with cinnamon, covered in toasted garlic, and served with grilled pineapple slices. Sweetness dominates the flavour wheel in Sukhos kitchen, but with such delicate spicing, it works. Have the excellent coconut ice-cream for dessert.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008