Sukho

The stretch of Fulham Road around Parsons Green has no shortage of restaurants: whether you’re after Chinese dim sum or German beer and bratwurst. Despite the competition, though, Sukho is constantly busy. Part of a three-strong chain that includes Suk Saran in Wimbledon and Suksan in Chelsea, it exudes elegance and charm.

The dining room blends contemporary east Asian and traditional features, with detailed wooden carvings, white napery and plenty of colourful candles, making an ideal setting for a romantic meal (though a banquette by the window was just a little too squishy from regular use). A starter of juicy pork, wrapped in betel leaves and chargrilled, was served on skewers with a sweet and tangy plum dipping sauce.

To follow, marinated sea bass with red curry paste was also attractively presented on the banana leaf in which it had been cooked; rich, complex and aromatic with aniseed notes from a sweet-basil garnish, it was a pleasure to eat.

In contrast, beef massaman lacked depth, with coconut milk and peanuts the prominent flavours rather than the earthy slow-cooked beef and the aromatic cinnamon and cumin spicing we’d expected. To drink, there’s plenty for wine-lovers, plus Thai beer and teas including a sweet, herbal chrysanthemum infusion.