Restaurants

That might seem like a sushi counter in the front room of this popular split-level, low-key local, but take a closer look at the refrigerated cabinet. Instead of fish, it is jam-packed with meaty skewers ready for the grill: pork loin, chicken livers, duck breast, ox tongue and more. Behind the counter, a robata chef tends two smoulderingly hot grills, which are kept working overtime by the mainly local crowd. Sushi appears from an out-of-sight kitchen and is not bad at all, especially the silky salmon, buttery tuna, and sweet, sticky eel. We also loved the firmly packed, scorchy-bottomed gyoza dumplings. But you’re really here for the grills. Don’t miss the asparamaki (thinly sliced belly pork wrapped around asparagus spears), the beefy, lightly chewy ox-tongue, and the crisp and sticky chicken wings (so good we immediately ordered more). Salt-grilling is also done well, turning mackerel into a crisp and smoky delight. Tosa’s not fancy, but with an Asahi beer in your hand and the smell of barbecue in the air, we can think of many worse places to while away the evening.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009