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For good, middle-range, sensibly priced Italian food, Orso is still a market leader. It also affords excellent thespian spotting opportunities, without the indignity of loitering outside the Ivy. The restaurant occupies a tiled, cavernous basement, where food, mostly with a Tuscan tilt, is served on hand-painted earthenware crockery. Traditional starters range from artichoke, bean and thyme soup, to deep-fried courgettes with ricotta, tomato and basil stuffing. Just as pleasing is the selection of pizzas (prawn, fennel, salami, vegetable, or goats cheese), which shares the menu with an equally well-balanced list of own-made pasta (including a simple, enjoyable seafood linguine). All this is ideal for a quick pre- or post-theatre bite, but main courses are worth lingering over, especially the likes of tuna and roast peppers with rocket and capers, or roast duck with white beans and apricots or just a good old-fashioned grilled sirloin. Theres also a notable choice of desserts, from fresh fruit to cheese, via sundry tarts. But perhaps best of all is an enticing wine list, accommodating 25cl carafes alongside fine Italian wines. With smart, cheerful service to boot, Orso is a West End stalwart.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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