Restaurants

Occupying a spacious basement in a prime Covent Garden location, Orso’s underground bunker is cosy rather than oppressive, lifted with warm lighting and the friendly clamour of relaxed get-togethers over a gratifying Italian meal. Slick, smiley waiters flit between large family groups, men discussing shares and couples en route to the theatre. Service was a little inattentive on our midweek visit but they did had a full house. Food is served on country-style ceramic plates: the drill here is hearty pastas and big pizza pies laden with toppings like a sea of homemade pesto and meaty wild mushrooms. Roast venison medallions in a flavour-packed gravy were sprinkled with pomegranate seeds whose sweet-sour flavour was a good foil to the gameyness of the meat, but the texture didn’t quite gel with the accompanying mashed potatoes. Desserts are great – a flourless chocolate cake was rich, moussey and decadent under a crisp top and served with creamy mascarpone. In another welcome touch, wine is also available by the carafe.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009