Restaurants

The Masala Zone chain is expanding rapidly, but we reckon the Soho original is still the most reliable branch. Its hugely popular too, with queues at busy times reminiscent of Wagamamas heyday. The queues move fast though, seating is comfortable, and the booths are secluded enough for private conversation. This is a chic-looking place, with murals by tribal artists, ochre walls, and clever partitions that make the best use of an awkward, low-ceilinged space. But the real draw is the menu. Many dishes are interpretations of regional Indian fast food that you dont often see in the UK, such as the gosht dabalroti: a rich lamb curry served with chunks of bread. Or theres the Gujarati combo called undhiyu and lentil khichdi, with an unusual mix of vegetables in a stew that includes raw banana and sweet potato. The thalis are good value, and even the ayurvedic thali had plenty of contrasts of flavour and texture. The only dishes weve found to underachieve are the noodle bowls and the masala burgers. The chefs are far better at traditional food than the modern, fusion-style recipes.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008