Restaurants

The corner site just by the British Museum allows plenty of light through the large windows of this branch of the Tas chain. There’s also a spacious basement dining area and pavement tables. The restaurant was very busy on our visit, and service was blindingly fast. Dishes were brought to the table on enormous trays, accompanied by folding stands. A big portion of patlıcan salatası was a superior starter: very creamy and smoky aubergine, with fresh mint leaves. A main course of pirasali köfte featured minced lamb kebab on a bed of pan-fried leeks, with tomato; the combination worked well and wasn’t over-flavoured. Other restaurants in the group are similar and have spread strategically around central London. Rebelling against a long Turkish tradition of combining simple flavours, Tas chefs prefer to blend intense flavours rather than risk blandness. This can occasionally lead them astray, but in general the inventiveness of the menu pays off.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009